The MQi GT was first showed at the EICMA 2019 (Read our report here) and is now available in numbers.
And indeed it looks like the model presented at the show, so no vapor-ware (Project-X or TQi anyone?)… this is what was announced:
And it is exactly what you can get now. As usual, NIU started with an intro-sale which offers a special price of 2999€ instead of 3399€ if you register early on.
Like said in our EICAMA report, this is actually are real new design – not just an update of a known frame/chassis. We would consider it to be a grown-up MQi/MQiSport with a tiny touch of NQi.
The specs are on NIUs page and all over the web, and we just list what we consider the improvements:
- “M” isn’t a synonyme for single-seater anymore
- 14″ wheels is where NIU is going… after the NQi GT they’re moving the whole range to this meaningful upgrade.
- The MQi GT has a larger wheelbase (1389 mm) than the NQi GTS (1325 mm). The GT is even shorter due to its 12″ wheels (1280 mm)
- The 4th Gen battery. Still NIU kept the form-factor shared between the MQi+ – and U-Series.
- Increased robustness in the details (static passenger-footrests, all-around bumpers as option)
In our view all these lead to the fact that everyday suitability was increased dramatically – and that’s, what a city scooter is all about…
- Longer bench for an occasional passenger
- Bigger wheels and wheelbase for a more stable and thus safer ride (plus “EBS”)
- Reduced “flimsiness” – the spring-loaded passenger footrests often broke.
- If your MQi GT is expecting a rough life, there are robust steel bumpers available to protect the chassis
Still, there’s one thing missing which makes a motor-scooter a motor-scooter since the early days of two-stroke Vespas:
All MQi models have next to no under-seat compartment (aka “the bucket”). While this is comparably small with the NQi (non GT) already and can’t cope with an non-Chinese helmet, it’s even worse with the MQi GT.
Yes, these sales brochure tells you that you can leave one of the two provided batteries at home… but that would require hindsight, planning and, well, honestly, what are you planning to transport in this:
Gloves maybe. Two packs of fries (“chips” for our beloved British readers) or a small bottle and your purse?
What’s your view on the new MQi GT? Feel free to leave a comment below…
I have had my MQi GT for a week now. I LOVE IT! (Comparing to my 2019 N Sport).
More robust and the three driving modes are even updated! So far I have nothing negative to say other than that I miss my top box as the mounting bracket is not available yet and the changing of the turn signal sound does not seem to exist with the 2 second left 2 second right hack.
Positives:
1. The new configurations of the three driving modes!!! LOVE IT! E-Save now being 25km/h, Dynamic now being top speed but with a softer and more energy economical acceleration, Sport “Get Outta My Way!”
2. The Auto low beam and the MUCH better light spread for both the low and high beam.
3. Ride and handling with the larger wheels.
4. Longer wheelbase and overall design with it’s “beefier” look. A real city cruiser/commuter.
5. Love the larger and less mushy seat.
6. The slightly larger storage area behind the batteries.
7. Keyless system and possibility of seeing if the alarm is armed or disarmed in the App.
8. Metal bar ends.
9. The charger now has a removable battery cable. This now allows you to pack the charger under the seat WITH both batteries! 🤘🏼⭕️
That sounds awesome – can’t wait to test-drive that baby!
Thanks for sharing your first impressions (BTW: Any negatives yet?)
The changing of the turn signal sound does not seem to exist with the 2 second left 2 second right hack.
Answer:
Yes it works, I changed it in the usual way.
I have this bike too. It is bigger in size, you sit like on a chair instead of on a toilet bowl.
What I miss in comparison to the N1S is the pocket in the front to put glasses or phone in. Plus I cannot find any mount position for a phone holder, rendering the USB socket somewhat useless.
The turn signal knob is kind of flimsy. Hard to turn the signal off. Might be a matter of getting used to though.
Those of you who got MQi GT, what is your impression on range compared to numbers from Niu?
Could not ride much due to weather conditions. When I picked it up from the store I had 46% battery left after 35 km.
I bought one, with an extra set of two batteries. I have a farm 18 miles from home. The first six miles are city, the remaining 12 are country roads. Mine is modified to do the full 70kph (~45mph).
If I switch it to Sport, do 25mph in the city and the full 45 in the country, I usually get to the farm with just over half the battery capacity left. The first time I did it, I stuck with the first pair of batteries, limited it to 35mph (in “Dynamic”), and made it almost back home before the low battery warning slowed me to 15mph.
Mostly these days I pack the second set of batteries in our electric car, which my wife brings to the farm with her. Then I swap at the farm and come back on a fully charged set. Faster that way.
So, I’d say the range is 36 miles, or a bit more, in Dynamic. Now that it’s full summer, and a bit warmer, I might even be able to pull off the full trip on a single set of batteries on Sport, depending on the winds.
BTW, I actually bought the second set of batteries to convert some equipment at the farm to electric, with one of the excellent Niu 48V batteries.
Thanks Ken for sharing!
That’s an unexpected & interesting use for a NIU battery… is that cheaper than a conventional 48V battery?
Speaking of batteries, I’m about to purchase myself an NGT/GTS. I noticed it has a 60v26ah battery. Would a 60v35ah battery be also compatible? I assume it would give me longer range. Thanks.
KC – How did you modify your bike to “full speed”? Switch controller?
My dealer did it for me. I’ve seen instructions online for how to do it. A bunch of “push this button so long, then do this” kind of things. I don’t know the details myself.
Some dealers offer it as a service. Cheapest I found is stromfahrzeuge.at for 99€. That offer is for NGT, but MQIGT has the same controller hardware. I got hold of a used MQIGT board and will try to program it once it arrived. If no success I will try the mentioned service.
Thanks for your fast replys!
Axel – I’d say overall it’s much cheaper and easier. Considering 48V batteries aren’t common, I don’t have any charging ability for any other 48V anything, and this battery fits my available space nicely, this seemed like a better idea. If you google 48V battery, you’ll find they’re either extremely expensive batteries for solar PV battery systems, or tiny little things for RC equipment. If you search for “chor trac garden tractor” you’ll see the equipment I’m repowering.
All of those two-wheeled tractors would be better powered with electric motors – you have to run the gas engine at higher rpms to not stall under load, but you really want to run the tractor itself at less than a usual walking pace when you’re using it. You often want to stop it, then start moving from a full stop. But you also want to be able to move at a regular pace during transport. The transport is the only time the gas engine speed really works well.
What is the tire pressure for this model?
I have the MQi GT Sport and i can’t find this information anywere
Inside scooter (MQI GT) I found small sticker with below info, I hope that will help.
To be honest I’m also not clear on that.
==================================================
TIRE INFORMATION
COLD TIRE PRESSURES
(One Rider): Front 200 kPa, Rear 225 kPa
(Two Rider): Front 200 kPa, Rear 225 kPa
(Note: The tire pressure must not over pass 250kPa)
==================================================
1 kilopascal = 0.01 bar, so 200kPa = 2bar etc.
Based on manual (they mentioned only about front tire), air pressure range of the front tire is 25 to 34 psi.
30psi = ~2bar
So is also more or less accurate with info on sticker.
So, a year on, 4000 miles on it, and I’ve run into a few other notes.
– I have a slightly newer model than the one in the picture above. I *can* fit some things under the seat. It seems to be shaped for a spare helmet, and I suspect you could find a helmet that would fit. However, in my case, I found another terrific use for it – the charger fits in there. So, I put the charger and AC cord under the seat, and the DC-to-scooter cable in a pannier. Drastically increases the range, in that I can charge it when I get somewhere.
– Various loose/rattly problems, mostly on the handlebars. I replace one bolt with something shorter, and a bit of electrical tape.
– Changing the tires is a pain. The front is no problem, but to change the back tire, as far as I can tell, you remove the battery bathtub and seat, and unbolt the motor from the controller. Then you can take the rear wheel off. I expected a really big connector pair, but nope, you’re removing good-sized wires from the controller itself. Take pictures.
– The scooter is *too* quiet. Almost no one has any idea I’m there. Most importantly, my 18-mile each-way trip to the farm goes through 16 miles of countryside. Deer have no idea you’re coming, until they’re out in the road and see the headlight. I hit my horn a lot, but also made a mini-arduino-piezo speaker that I plug into the USB port when I’m coming home in the evenings. Helps.
– Finally developing a real problem. The motor controller is under the front battery, and it has a kind of beep code. No idea what the code means yet, but I’ve had a half dozen times where beeping starts under the seat, and I lose all propulsion as it beeps 14 times. When I’ve rolled to a stop, I can usually push the ready button (to not ready), then again (to ready) and take off again. But once I had to power the scooter completely down and back on. Even had a check engine light for a while, but no code I could see. I strongly suspect motor controller overheating. Doesn’t look like there’s even a heat sink for it. It seems to be related to hot days and high speeds, triggering when I slow back down, which would reduce the cooling for a hot controller.
Still lovin’ it, but getting a little concerned.
Hey KC, thanks for your review!
As for the “beep code”, I guess that’s the same as the blink code discussed in my FAQ. 14 times means “Cable Hall Sensor Failure” which again points to my 1st Video on the DIY page aka the “ERROR 140 of doom”. It a common issue (see the YT comments) which is not really understood or solved. My suspicion is the controller connection/cableing.